DIFFUSION LINES
Diffusion lines often have a bad rep – some of them actually do so understandably, others less so. Let’s take a closer look at the idea of the diffusion line.
Especially in the early aughts but basically, whenever materialism was at a height, flashy designs and these lines big logos were uber popular. But that was not the beginning of secondary lines as we know them today. They first peaked in the 70s and then rose in popularity again in the 90s. Offering a secondary line used to be great to have an additional creative outlet, to reach another market, to target a new or different customer group. It could have a different style or look similar to the main lines designs but it was great to bolster the brands’ bottom line.
Initially, diffusion lines initially started in Haute Couture. The brands wanted to become more profitable, therefore created perfumes and licensed small accessories as for example sunglasses to later expand into clothing. As a concrete example: YSLs ready-to-wear line, YSL Rive Gauche, initially is to be considered a diffusion line to the Couture business. These clothes were simpler versions of the runway designs to offer them to more fashionable women – and back then the fashion world was shocked by it.
Today the most successful secondary lines have a different style from their main lines – for a simple reason: they have an identity, give something authentic to the clients. So to speak Miu Miu was initially a younger second creative outlet for Prada and therefore could be considered one. The difference is: Miu Miu is not associated with Prada at all, therefore it is its own brand and not in fact a diffusion line. The failed ones on the other hand often create the feeling of being a washed-down version of the main line and leave a bitter aftertaste of just being a moneymaker with the customers. To add insult to injury many customers thought of these brands as secondary labels and lesser than.
Nonetheless, many of them faltered over the last decade, some were shuttered as they diluted the image of the main line, while others cannibalized to many customers off the main line. Many more were given up due to fast fashion – customers didn’t feel the urge anymore to purchase simplified designs from secondary lines when Zara or H&M offered copies of the main lines’ runway pieces.
So how to avoid cheap copies of intricate designs? Shop for vintage secondary line. They are of higher quality and haven’t only been created for money-making purposes. Look at the YSL lines and their couture counterparts to see the strong references and resemblances.
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ISTANTE VERSACE
A utilitarian jacket in beige is created in a signature Versace manner. As usual, the garment is tailored to perfection, hugging the wearer’s body if worn true to size. Even for its diffusion line Versaces` attention to detail is impeccable: here the buttons don’t feature their iconic medusa but a similar god. Instead of gold, the buttons are of a dark brown, for a muted and more coherent look, creating an iconic piece for the more laid-back wearer.
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DIOR 2
Checkmate or in this case more like checkered mate: Dior 2 created this checkered jacket in beige. As a soft iteration of an 80s power suit, this blazer has strong shoulders and is slightly oversized around the bust, only to create an even more cinched aesthetic in look around the waist. Emphasized by two buttons set closely together as well as two pockets below the waist are further emphasizing this small-waisted look.
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GIVENCHY EN PLUS
Metallic silver garments decorated with colorful paisley is not what today is associated with Givenchy. But that is the beauty of decade-old heritage brands and fashionable adventurous and wilder times, as in this case the 80s. The silver lamé jacket has a decorative seam creating the illusion of a belt for more shape. Subtle vertical seams forming folds not only give the piece structure but as well elongates the wearer.
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YVES SAINT LAURENT VARIATION
One of the prime examples that YSL is mastering the classics. This coat, from one of its diffusion lines, could be from this fall season, 10 years ago or even 30 years ago. With its black and white material, simple buttons and classic collar the garment has not one single feature dating it. Two big pockets make it practical for the daytime, while the length is perfect to wear it in the countryside or the city.
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GIVENCHY EN PLUS
Here a matching waistcoat with a blazer is offering a multitude of styling opportunities. The pieces can be styled separately as well as together. Added on gold, branded buttons are upgrading the piece even further. The checkered waistcoats back is in a smaller, but matching pattern, bringing in some lighter tones to the muted design, as is the bright red lining of the jacket.
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YSL RIVE GAUCHE
To avoid a fashion faux pax many rely on black, white and beige when getting dressed. Sporting vibrant colors, like this bright magenta, seem too scary. But there is a very easy solution, to not look like a cartoon character: go for a classic cut. This YSL Rive Gauche statement coat does this expertly. The clean lines balance out the bright colors and create a coat, that can accompany you for many seasons to come, without looking dated.
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VALENTINO | MISS V
Italian glamour could be a synonym for Valentino. The big pleats in the back of the coat reinforce this perception by being classic yet fabulous in shape. While walking or spinning around the coat will create a voluminous and dramatic effect on the wearer.
The bright pink is perfect for a transitional coat, making it fun and adaptable. In addition to that, we currently cannot get enough of a Valentino magenta, ever since Pierpaolo Piccioli showed us 81 looks in a bold pink for fall/winter 2022.
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ISTANTE VERSACE | 38
Regular price €70,00 EURRegular priceUnit price per€95,00 EURSale price €70,00 EURSale -
YVES SAINT LAURENT VARIATION | 40
Regular price €100,00 EURRegular priceUnit price per€175,00 EURSale price €100,00 EURSale -
VALENTINO | MISS V
Regular price €45,00 EURRegular priceUnit price per€90,00 EURSale price €45,00 EURSale